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Day 4 Visit to dargah in Ajmer
Saturday, July 21st, 2012

By Sudha Mathew

The last leg before I reach the destination is usually the most fidgety frustrating part because I have “when-will-we-get-there” running in a loop through my head.  Wait! I’m skipping ahead without describing the most interesting episode of the day.

After a yummy breakfast of fried eggs with green chillies and tomatoes at the Ajmer Bungalow, we are on our way to Dargah Sharif. We are already late but how can you go to Ajmer and not pay your respects to Gharib Nawaz Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti, the famous Sufi saint? The biggest business in this city seems to be making a quick buck off pilgrims to the saint’s tomb. From special parking lots to getting in quickly to safeguarding footwear, everything comes at a price. But that doesn’t stop it from being the most popular thing to do in Ajmer.

Yameen Bhai Khadim

From the parking lot, we take an auto through the narrow and dirty streets to reach the Dargah Sharif, which has clean white marble floors. It is relatively less crowded today.  Our host Naveen had put us in touch with Yameen Bhai in the morning and so we meet him at his gaddi. Tall and handsome with a look of an Afghani patriarch about him, Yameen Bhai is someone who leaves a vivid image in your memory long after you have met him. He is one of the khadims at Ajmer Sharif. Khadims are the descendants of the five families to who served the saint when he was alive. They now control and manage the dargah.

I strongly recommend that you get someone at your hotel in Ajmer to connect you with one of the khadims of Ajmer Sharif as it makes the whole process a lot quicker and easier.

We are making pretty good time from Ajmer to Jaipur so we naively think we might get lucky and reach Gurgaon before the rush hour starts. But after Jaipur the highway narrows down to a small lane by the side of the new one, which is not open yet. It is incredibly frustrating to weave through slow trucks driving in all lanes. Quite a letdown after the fabulous expressways in Gujarat and Maharashtra. The worst part – we drove for 6 hours straight with no loo break or tea break. Where are the Cafe Coffee Days and the McDonalds of the world when you need them?

We reach our hotel for the night, a charming six room boutique hotel in the newly hipster neighbourhood Hauz Khas. The friendly night manager puts us in to the room first so that we can wash up and provides iced tea while we fill in the form. I’m so happy that we are adding this property to seek&hide. Now I definitely need a good night’s sleep because tomorrow my business trip actually begins.

Trip stats:

Day 4 Distance from Ajmer to Delhi is 394 kms

Driving time 8 hours



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About me

The wise man travels to discover himself - JR Lowell


My name is Sudha Mathew. I'm an ex-banker who quit the rat race after a decade to follow my passion for travel and to combine it with my experience in understanding client requirements and exceeding their expectations.


While our content is mostly about the holiday experience, the accommodation and services, there's so much more to a journey. I have discovered a whole new me through travel. So I've reserved this corner of the website to share the unexpected aspects of travel. This space is also to hear from you about your journeys and discoveries. Bon Voyage!

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